Čitluk travel diary

croatia bus

Bus ride Split – Citluk. Radio playing covers. All sung by man vaguely sounding like Eros Ramasotti. All have trumpet added. Bus going very fast on narrow roads.

Anxiety level: 3.




bosnia border


Passport control entering Bosnia. Driver leaves bus with everyone’s passport. Comes back and random passenger start distributing passports. Mine obviously last, what the hell do I do if missing?

Anxiety level: 3.





bosniaSuddenly no more signs for Citluk. Ask driver: “Shit, Citluk!”. Driver stops at gas station, drops me off and says: “Citluk, 3-4 km. You wait little car”. Ask for Taxi “Nema Taxi! Nema Taxi!”

Anxiety level 8.





Little car takes me towards Citluk. Driver speaks German, friendly. I say something about Bosnia. Icy silence, driver looks angry. I say “Herzegovina, Herzegovina!”. Driver friendly again, says: “Bosnia nicht gut, hier ordnung. Bosnia schlecht.”

Anxiety level 5.

johhny walker citlukStop for drink in Johnny Walker bar. Order Gin Tonic thinking it’s the most international of orders. Bartender and all guests have lively discussion in Croatian about what the hell I might want. Bartender holds up 2 whiskey bottles. I point at one.

Anxiety level 1.




Lovely wedding ceremony. Great wedding party. Fabulous dancing.

mostarAlternatives for going back. Taxi to Mostar or bus that might or might not stop somewhere in Citluk at some unspecified time. Taxi. Driver drives like car stolen and running from police.

Anxiety level 3.

Bus from Mostar. Slight pang of regret on passing Ali Baba discotheque without having a chance to visit.

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